The Shree Mangueshi Temple is regarded as one of the region’s highlights. I have to agree.
The bus ride out follows the same route and driving style as the road to Old Goa, then continues abut 12-14 klicks SE of Old Goa. For about 20 or 30 rupees, you’re getting one hoot of a ride. It’s really like playing Dodg’ems but in buses. If you have Mental Health issues, I’d recommend this bus ride immensely. 2 options of treatment, 1) By the time you get off, you realise the insignificant issues in your head don’t trump survival, or 2) Pick your nose and 3 bumps later, your DIY lobotomy will be complete.
Once you reach the Temple entry area, the view greeting you is simply incredible. In accordance with local tradition, you’re asked to shed your shoes and if wearing shorts, to wear a Sari. As soon as you’ve done that, tou’re free to roam pretty much the entire area. The artisanship in this architecture is magnificent. The level of detail clearly demonstrates to passion this temple was created with.
Photography isn’t permitted in the main temple
The temple architecture consists of several domes, pilasters and balustrades. There is a prominent Nandi Bull and a beautiful seven-story deepstambha (lamp tower), which stands inside the temple complex in Saraswat Architectural style. The temple also has a magnificent water tank, which is believed to be the oldest part of the temple
The deepstambha (lamp tower), a large structure with seven stories, is a prominent element of the temple’s main entrance. Intricate carvings of Hindu deities, mythical characters, and other decorative patterns cover the deepstambha.
The main temple is dedicated to Bhagavan Manguesh, an incarnation of Shiva. Bhagavan Mangesh is worshipped here as Shiva linga. According to the legend, Shiva had manifested into a tiger to scare his wife Parvati. Paravati, who was frightened at the sight of the tiger, went in search of Shiva and cried out, “Trahi Mam girisha!” (Oh Lord of Mountains, save me!). Upon hearing the words, Shiva turned himself back to his normal form. The words “mam girisha” became associated with Shiva and over time the words got abbreviated to Manguirisha or Manguesh.
The complex also has shrines of deities in the temple are Nandikeshvar, Gajanan, Bhagavati and the Gramapurusha Deva Sharma of the Vatsa gotra. The subsidiary shrines to the rear of the main building house Devtas like Mulakeshwsar, Virabhadra, Saanteri, Lakshminarayana, Suryanarayan, Garuda and Kala Bhairav.
Of particular interest was the chariot used for Rath Yatra celebrations. These chariots are incredibly detailed with intricate decoration. Each diorama tells a particular story. The tradition of large numbers of people pulling the cart during festivals provides a sense of commonness and unity. It’s said that being a member of the team pulling the cart, grants you certain protections for 200 days.
After seeing the Mangueshi temple, I decided there was ample time left in the day for another adventure. I’d heard there was a delightful waterfall a few klicks up the road. Hiking boots re-attached after exiting the temple, off I set. Seeing the vendor lined streets is always interesting, selling wares of all types. About 2 k’s down the track I spot one vendor that really caught my eye
I’ll let you consider the inherent risks of operating this little plant in an open shop. Curious what would happen if someone carelessly lit a cigarette……………………………., Well, you work it out!
Around 3-4 k’s was a fork in the road with a little cafe right in the fork. Running low on H2O, I decided I’d check which direction. The shopkeeper, in typical Indian style, just points and sells me the water. Luckily, a customer overhears the conversation and tells me it’s another couple of klicks before telling me there’s NO WATER though. He fills me in that the wier gates were closed and the falls only flow when they’re open. This is all in mid 30’s and high humidity so I’ll let you guess how I felt right then. Enthusiasm squashed & dejected, I decided to catch the bus back. Now that was a stroke of luck. I met Dr. Keith waiting at the bus stop. A nicer man, you’d never wish to meet.
We discussed all sorts of things waiting on the corner and eventually got onto my growing Asthma issues. I told him the releiver puffers were no longer really working and that I was trying to find a “Preventer” puffer. He filled me in I was never going to find it because they call it something entirely different, but worse, they only keep it in “Asthma season”. We get back to Panaji about an hour later and he decided he’d rectify this for me so he took me the chemist after chemist trying to get what I needed. After a distinct lack of success, he did some research then arranged a combination “releiver/preventer” puffer, got the price sorted and arranged pick up.
This is from a Random encounter on a bus stop! Can you imagine a doctor doing that for a rando in Australia???
My asthma improved gradually over the next few days or week. You just can’t detail the warmth or helpfulness of the people here.
Dr. Keith then suggested if I like waterfalls, I should try Dudshager Falls, so that was my mext adventure.